Blocker Bar Removed
The blocker bar is a large steel bar spanning between the front
mounts of the leaf springs. I am not sure of the official name of
this piece nor it's intended function. But, with the addition of a new
bumper the bar was in the way and needed to be removed. Some
people say it is intended to prevent the truck from riding up over
the top of other cars, and others say it is intended to stiffen the
area between the leaf spring mounts, to prevent vibration. I guess
once the truck is another foot or more in the air, this will all be
irrelavent anyway!
The bar is removed by cutting the brackets on both sides with a
cut off wheel. If you plan to remove this bar, have it fully
supported before cutting. The bar weighs around 60 lbs. and you
don't want it falling once one side is cut.
Front Bumper Mounts Welded
After installing the new front bumper several times, for
measurements and design issues, I noticed how the brackets that
support the bumper are attached to the frame. The brackets
have a flange on both sides which slide over the frame. At the
back edge of the bracket there is a single weld attaching the
bracket to the frame. With the weight of the new bumper, winch,
and lights, I felt these brackets needed reinforcing. On the front
of the brackets there is a "pocket" between the curve of the
bracket and the edge of the frame. This seemed like the perfect
spot to add a nice thick weld. Some people argue this affects the
engineered "crumple zone" of the truck. After adding a bumper and
winch with a combined weight of about 400 lbs., I'm not really
worried about the "crumple zone."
Custom Front Bumper
The basic bumper, in it's original form, is from Trail Ready in
Everett, WA. It was shipped via freight in a large crate. I
ordered mine without any powder coating since it would be
modified later anyway. Being bare steel, the bumper gradually
took on this nice orange hue. This seemed to draw a lot of
attention. I nicknamed it "Tetanus" during that time. You should see
peoples faces when they saw it. I don't know if they were scarred,
shocked, disgusted, insulted, or excited. Maybe a combination. The
bumpers come with all kinds of slits cut in them for lights and
venting. Trail Ready also cuts their logo in the skid plate area.
Both of which I didn't care for. I had them leave these off of mine.
I would have venting holes for airflow cut later along with some
other modifications to the bumper.
The ultimate plan for this bumper was to make it as functional as
possible, while keeping a clean, uncluttered appearance to the
front end. I wanted to mount some off-road lights, but didn't want
to just bolt them to the bumper. This led to the steel pipe pieces
which serve as a housing and protection for the Hella HID 4000
lights. The pipes are about 3/8" thick steel and weigh about 30 lbs.
each. The most time consuming part of modifying the bumper
involved the design process of allowing the pipe pieces to recess
as far as possible into the bumper, but still leave room for the
Warn 15,000 lb. winch. I used a 3D animation program to aid in the
modification. Using 3D Studio MAX, I modeled the section of the
bumper where the shields would go. This allowed the light shield
to be recessed as far into the bumper as possible, without
interfering with the mounting of the winch.
With all the designing complete, it was now time to have these
plans come to life. First, the pipe pieces needed to get their front
edges cut to the desired shape. Stainless Steel Fabricators in
Raleigh, NC took care of this. They use a laser to cut through
the pipes while they are mounted on a lathe type machine. A
laser is rotated around the pipe to create the desired contour.
Providing a CAD file to the laser operater allowed me to get
precisely the shape I was looking for.
Now it was time for the final step of the modifications. After a
long search for a skilled welder, the pipe pieces, and bumper
were dropped off. Cutting the vent holes in the skid plate was
straight forward, but time consuming. This needed to be done by
hand with a torch, then cleaned up by a small belt sander with a
diamond impregnated belt. I had already marked the bumper for the
proper cutting locations for the shields. The 3D model made this
step fairly accurate. Some other small modifications were also
done at this time. The D-ring holes needed enlarging to allow for
larger stainless steel shackles. There were also holes cut to
mount some Hella L.E.D. marker lights.
The hardware I used to attach the bumper is grade 8 bolts and
nuts. I had a full weld placed around the heads of the bolts for
strength. This allows the nuts to be tightened from the front
without securing the back, since it is a difficult area to access.
These were sandblasted and coated with POR-15 for durability.
Once all the fabricating work was done it was time to sandblast,
rustproof, and Rhino Line the entire bumper. After 6 long months
the bumper was finally done.
One of the most important parts of this project, was having the
ability to mount and remove the bumper by myself. Weighing about
250 lbs. without the winch mounted, and close to 400 lbs. with the
winch mounted, safety was a serious concern in moving this piece.
During the design process the bumper was mounted and removed
about 12 times. The solution to making this possible by one person,
was a jig attached to a floor jack.
Stainless Steel Shackles
The shackles are intended for recovery purposes of other
vehicles or to aid in recovering my truck. They also make the
perfect spot for attaching the winch hook when using a snatch
block to double the pulling power of the winch. The shackles are
made of solid stainless steel and have a working load limit of
12,000 lbs. There is also a shackle in the rear attached to the
receiver hitch.
Warn 15,000 lb. Winch
The bumper was designed to mount, up to, a 15,000 lb. winch. The fit
is tight and some minor trimming was necessary to get it to fit
just right. The stated weight from Warn for this winch is 136 lbs.
Synthetic Winch Rope
The standard steel cable that comes with all winches has several
drawbacks compared to a synthetic rope. First, the steel cables
are are very heavy and add unnecessary weight to the front of
the truck. The cable on my winch came in at 31.5 lbs. Whereas,
the synthetic rope weighs in at only 6.5 lbs ! Secondly, and most
important, is the safety of using a synthetic rope over a steel
cable. The potential injuries from a steel cable breaking during
winching can be severe, and even deadly. While the risk of injury
during winching with a synthetic rope is virtually none. When a
steel cable is taught during winching and then breaks, there is a
tremedous recoil of both ends of the cable. When a synthetic
rope breaks during winching it simply falls to the ground with
minimum recoil. In addition to these factors, the strength to weight
ratio of a syntheic rope far exceeds a steel cable.
The synthetic rope I am using is from Off Road Only. It is a 100'
long, 3/8" rope, rated at 18,000 lbs. The use of a synthetic rope
also requires a new fairlead. The one Off Road Only offers is a
solid piece of aluminum which is very smooth, to prevent snagging
the rope. The hook is spliced onto the end of the rope and comes in
a standard painted orange. I chose to sandblast mine and paint it
with a custom mixed gray color of POR-15 to match the vehicle
better.
|